Examples of (mostly) simulated pearl necklaces sold in the UK and elsewhere from 1950s onwards including some modern brands. Sometimes you can identify an old pearl necklace by comparing the clasps on these necklaces which have stayed with their original boxes. Of course, except where the clasp has a trademark we cannot know for sure whether the necklace within belongs there.
Cascade 1a. Cascade Simulated Pearls.
Day Dreams 1a. Day Dreams necklace in box.
Day Dreams 1b. Clasp for Day Dreams necklace.
Day Dreams 1c. Logo for Day Dreams.
Delta Shell 1a. Delta necklace in box with sale certificate 1964.
Delta Shell 1b. Clasp.
Delta Shell 1c. Clasp reverse with made in England, Sterling Silver.
Elizabethan 1a. Elizabethan necklace in box. 'Silver Scroll Pearls'.
Elizabethan 1b. Clasp for Elizabethan necklace. Reverse says 'Made in England'
Elizabethan 2a. Elizabethan necklace in box.
Elizabethan 2b. Clasp for Elizabethan necklace. Reverse says 'Made in England'
Elizabethan 3a. Elizabethan necklace in box.
Elizabethan 3b. Clasp for Elizabethan necklace. Reverse says 'Pat pending'
Excalibur 1a. Excalibur necklace in box. 'Lady Guinevere (simulated) Pearls' purchased in 1986 in Headingly
Excalibur1b. Clasp for Excalibur necklace. Reverse blank.
Heritage 1a. Case with Heritage necklace (simulated pearls).
Heritage 1b. Heritage insert: '... are created from the crushed Mother of Pearl of the oyster shells that have nurtured pearls on the bed of the Pacific Ocean close to Japan.'
Honora Pearls. Honora Pearls are sold through leading department stores and other prestigious outlets. They say they are 'the largest importer of Freshwater Pearls in the US' and claim inside connections to the finest Freshwater Cultured Pearl farms around the globe. Their stylish little bags add to the glamour of their jewelry.
Honora 1a. Honora Freshwater Pearls with their bag.
Honora 1b. Simple clasp.
Honora 2a. Honora Freshwater Pearls with their bag.
Honora 2b. Simple clasp.
Ledawn 1a. Ledawn Pearls box and necklace
Ledawn 1b. Clasp of this Ledawn necklace and pearls
Lotus 1a. Lotus de Luxe
Lotus 1b. Clasp of this Lotus de Luxe necklace
Lotus 2a. Lotus de Luxe
Lotus 2b. Clasp of this Lotus de Luxe necklace
Lotus 2c. Reverse of clasp of this Lotus de Luxe necklace with engraved mark 'Silver Lotus'
Lotus 3a. Fashion by Lotus with simulated pearls.
Lotus 3b. Clasp of this Lotus necklace. No marking on back.
Lotus 4a. Lotus de Luxe. Necklace all knotted and fits case perfectly.
Lotus 4b. Clasp of this Lotus de Luxe necklace.
Lotus 4c. Reverse clasp marking JKa 925. So sterling silver, which is 92.5% pure silver, and clasp made by J. Kohle GmbH of Germany.
Lotus 5a. Royale by Lotus.
Lotus 5b. Clasp of this Lotus necklace.
Lotus 5c. Reverse clasp with 925 mark (and probably JKa in rectangle).
Lotus 6a. Lotus de Luxe purchased in 1983 from Ratners.
Lotus 6b. Design within Lotus necklace.
Majorica Pearls are man-made imitation pearls. Grok says: The process mimics the natural formation of pearls. A glass or crystal bead is coated with a pearlescent paste. The bead is dipped multiple times, often up to 30 layers, into this mixture, with each layer being carefully dried and polished to build up the nacre-like coating.
Eduard Friedrich Hugo Heusch (1865–1937) was a German entrepreneur who pioneered the manufacture of artificial pearls, founding the Majorica brand in Mallorca, Spain.
Majorica 1a. Majorica Pearls of Manacor - Mallorca - Spain
Majorica 1b. Majorica Heusch Cert of purchase from November 20, 1968.
Majorica 2a. Majorica necklace in box
Majorica 2b. Majorica clasp.
Majorica 3a. Majorica necklace in box
Majorica 3b. Orquidea Boreal logo
Majorca 4a. Majorca Bolero Collection necklace in box
Majorca 4b. Clasp from Bolero Necklace
Omar 1a. Omar de Luxe necklace in box.
Omar 1b. Clasp for Omar necklace. Reverse just says 'Made in England'
Pompadour 1a. Case with Pompadour necklace - Pompadour pearls (simulated) 'Pearls for a Princess'.
Pompadour 1b. Clasp of Pompadour necklace
Pompadour 1c. Back of clasp of Pompadour necklace - Pompadour is engraved.
Pompadour 2a. Case with Pompadour necklace - Pompadour pearls (simulated) 'Pearls for a Princess'. 'Sterling Silver and Marcasite Clasp' insert. Receipt showing purchased in 1966 in Hinds in London.
Pompadour 2b. Clasp of Pompadour necklace
Pompadour 2c. Back of clasp of Pompadour necklace - Sterling Foreign is engraved.
Pompadour 3a. Case with Pompadour necklace. Receipt showing purchased in 1958.
Pompadour 3b. Clasp of Pompadour necklace with 1958 receipt
Pompadour 3c. Trademark phrase from 1958 box.
Pompadour 4a. Case with Pompadour necklace. Receipt showing purchased in 1966.
Pompadour 4b. Clasp of Pompadour necklace.
Rosita 1a. Rosita Cavendish necklace in box. The guarantee card within says that the pearls are simulated and that genuine silk has been used for the threading.
Rosita 1b. Clasp for Rosita necklace.
Rosita 1c. Back of clasp of Rosita necklace - Rosita is engraved.
Rosita 2a. Rosita necklace in Rosita Charm box not belonging to it.
Rosita 2b. Clasp for Rosita necklace.
Rosita 2c. Back of clasp of Rosita necklace - Rosita is engraved.
Below are some examples of the kind of cultivated and other pearls that we most often see, with some ideas as to their correct identification - though no guarantees that we are correct.
P1. Grok says: Baroque freshwater pearls Grade AA quality
P2. Grok says: Cultivated freshwater button pearls of medium quality
P3. From company Misaki Monaco with their handcrafted 'Xtreme Lustre' imitation pearls
P4. Grok says: likely freshwater baroque pearls size approx. 4mm, mid to lower grade
P5. Grok says: classic, multi-strand freshwater pearl necklace with a delicate and elegant aesthetic
P6. Grok says: freshwater baroque pearls including white, cream, and golden hues, with a mix of luster with some having a soft, satiny sheen
P7. ChatGPT says probably freshwater cultured pearls
P7c. This is a magnified image of the previous pearls
P8a. A faux/simulated pearl necklace that has aged badly
P9a. Some cultivated freshwater pearls. Time to test one!
P9b. One of the cultivated freshwater pearls now showing internal layers after being crushed.
P9c. The crushed cultivated freshwater pearl now immersed in vinegar.
P9d. Bubbles appear as the vinegar (acid) reacts with the pearl (calcium carbonate) to produce carbon dioxide gas.
P10a. These 36 freshwater pearls will soon be a necklace.
China dominates global freshwater pearl production (~95% of the market). Modern Chinese farms primarily use the triangle shell mussel (Hyriopsis cumingii) as host. Juvenile mussels are mass‐produced in hatcheries and grown to seed size before grafting. The standard method is tissue nucleation: small strips of mantle tissue from donor mussels are sliced and inserted into the host’s mantle. After insertion, the tissue forms a pearl sac and secretes nacre. This process typically requires 3–6 years in China to form jewelry‐quality pearls.
Mussels are farmed in clean freshwater bodies in provinces like Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Hubei. They are suspended in nets or cages with floating supports. Water quality is managed using plankton fertilization and filter-feeding fish to maintain clarity. Mussels grow for 1–2 years before grafting.
Tissue nucleation involves inserting mantle tissue to produce baroque-shaped pearls. No beads are used. Bead nucleation (e.g., CBSB technique) can produce coin, fireball, and near-round pearls using shaped nuclei. Coin and novelty shapes are achieved by using flat or custom-shaped nuclei.
Farms are often in ponds 2–3 m deep. Mussels are suspended to stable depths. Conditions are carefully managed: optimal temperatures, co-cultured fish, and clean water ensure mussel health. Mussels are monitored and cleaned periodically to avoid stress and promote nacre development.
Size and shape control come from using similar-sized mussels and consistent culture periods. Spherical beads yield round pearls; flat beads yield coin shapes. Hybrid mussels and refined techniques have increased round pearl yield.
Mussels are harvested after 2–6 years. Pearls are removed, cleaned, and sorted by shape, size, and color. Optical machines and manual sorting ensure matched strands. Low-grade seed pearls are filtered out early.
Pearls undergo cleaning, bleaching, and maeshori treatments. They are polished by tumbling with wax or cornmeal, and sometimes dyed. Drilled pearls are then matched into strands and graded into consistent-quality lots.
Breeding hybrids and sequencing mussel genomes help improve quality. Tools for nucleation are improving, and some farms use X-rays and imaging for quality control. Environmental efforts include recycling water and using low-impact farming techniques.
Chinese freshwater pearls come in a variety of types, each with distinct shapes and characteristics. Rice pearls are the most affordable, small and oval in shape. Round and near-round pearls are more symmetrical and moderately priced. Baroque pearls have unique irregular shapes and are slightly more expensive due to their individuality. Edison pearls are large and round with vivid colors, typically priced at a premium. Finally, Keshi and petal pearls are flat and organic-looking, often valued for their artistic appeal and priced similarly to baroque pearls.
These features are natural records of the pearl's growth and are often considered unique rather than flawed.
While freshwater pearls from China dominate the global market, a significant number of high-value pearls are still produced from marine oysters. These include Akoya, South Sea, and Tahitian pearls, each cultured in specific oyster species.
Though fewer in number compared to freshwater pearls, oyster-based pearls remain highly prized for their size, color, and luster. Environmental factors and sustainability concerns continue to influence the industry.
Data and insights are based on reports from GIA, Chinese aquaculture institutes, and published studies on pearl farming and freshwater mussel cultivation.